It’s never been a finer time to be atypique in France. You’ll have some outstanding company. First it was the 2006 from La Gramiere. Now it’s the 2007 l’Ancien from Jean Paul Brun.
Quality wines from quality producers are being denied the ability to use their appellation of origin on the labels because they do not taste sufficiently similar to the ocean of wine being produced in their areas. For La Gramiere, that region is Côtes du Rhône, for M. Brun, it’s Beaujolais. Both of these appellations are huge, and home to myriad producers, many of whom turn out wine that is not particularly inspired. But, through the “wisdom” of the appellation d’origine contrôlée system (AOC), “not particularly inspired” becomes “typique” which is what wines must be, as judged by a tasting panel, to be allowed to say “Côtes du Rhône” or “Beaujolais” on the label. Fail to be typique, and you have to label your wine as one being of the lesser levels of “quality”, Vin de Pays or Vins de Table.
While the denial of appellation doesn’t have much impact on geek sales, whether here or in Europe, which are more tuned in to producer or importer, rather than appellation, it can have a big impact on “normal” sales. For M. Brun, over 5000 cases of his l’Ancien are impacted. This is the bulk of his entire production for the year, and he will take a hit financially because of it (see the first May 8 posting by Brun’s U.S. importer Joe Dressner here). For La Gramiere, it’s their entire 2006 production that is impacted.
Ultimately, France will likely go the way of Italy, where the Vino da Tavola has become a mark of prestige (albeit for using otherwise impermissible grapes more than anything), rather than an impediment to sales. I just can’t see the establishment opening their minds to quality producers who make something truly special from land where others only make something ordinary but still marketable due to name recognition for their AOC. Hopefully, they will get it, but I fully expect them to trade on history until it is no longer able to support them where it matters most to them – their pocketbook.
