An old friend returns.

One of my first exposures to domestic craft beer, along with Bell’s, Anchor and Sam Adams, were the products of Anderson Valley Brewing Company.  For some entirely unclear reason, bombers of AV’s Poleeko Gold, Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout and Boont Amber were available in Michigan way back in late 1992 and early 1993.

These were halcyon days for me, as I had decided to graduate early from the University of Michigan, rather than stick it out for another semester in hopes of completing a second major before heading to graduate school at Washington University in the Fall of 1993.  Instead, I worked two jobs – one of which was cashier/late night beer cooler guy at the Ann Arbor landmark, The Village Corner.  VC was the good booze high water mark in Ann Arbor (and most if not all of Michigan at the time).  It had the state’s largest wine selection, a full time wine staff of three (Rick, Dick and Rod – later to be joined by Jorge, who was a manager at the time), a huge beer cooler that spanned the entire back of the store, and a daunting selection of distillery and independent bottlings of single malts at a time when you were lucky to find Glenfiddich in a “good” liquor store.  At that time, VC had literally hundreds of fine craft and import beers (along with plenty of cases of frat-favorite Busch Light, and stacks of Kurt the beer buyer’s favorite – Moosehead -  which, when it was as fresh as VC got it, was a delighful light lager).

One of the nice things about working at VC was their generous employee discount.  At its least generous, we received a hearty 20% off beer and wine, and it was not at all discouraged to have a beer on your break.  Bombers were a popular choice for the lunch/dinner break, and after their arrival, Anderson Valley’s offerings became an employee favorite.  My usual choice was the Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout, but my most vivid memory is of my first bomber of Poleeko Gold.  Sitting outside at the mudbowl (not during the game, just at the space) in the warm Michigan sun (it rarely gets “hot”) and drinking deeply of that golden ale – lightly fruity, lightly hoppy, but with an incredibly long, lingering bitter finish.  I don’t know that I’d had a beer that bitter before, but certainly not one I’d enjoyed so much.  This was my “bitter is good” moment.  Oceans of IPAs, DIPAs, IIPAs, Maibocks and other hoppy goodness later, I still have a soft spot for Poleeko Gold.

I don’t think I’ve had it since I left Ann Arbor back in the Summer of 1993 though, so it was with some trepidation about damaging its Proustian place in my beer heirarchy, that I picked up a six pack earlier this week.  The Anderson Valley beers have just begun to be distributed in Missouri, and I’m happy to report that the first bottle didn’t disappoint.  It was quite delicious.  It may not have matched my (probably horrifically incorrect) memory on the nose, but that defining backbone of bitterness was very much in evidence.  An American Pale Ale with a real spine to it.  Welcome back, old friend.