Beer Wine and Whisky

A thread over at the Stlhops forum got me thinking about wheat beers.  I don’t drink many (though more than my friend Zac).  The style called “American Wheats” leaves me pretty cold – the haze they carry seems to be their most defining characteristic, rather than their taste or aroma.  There are a couple that I don’t mind – Bell’s Oberon is pretty much a one sixpack a season (and Oberon season seems to get longer and longer . . .) beer for me.  There’s Three Floyds Gumballhead, but that’s a rare sight in these parts, and it’s so hoppy that the wheat is largely irrelevant to the aroma and taste profiles of the beer.

Bavarian wheat beers don’t have a lot of attraction for me either.  The yeast used tends to generate clove and banana-flavored esters that turn me off.  I’m mildly allergic to bananas (they make my throat itch like crazy), so perhaps I just have an inherent aversion to them.  Berliner Weisse is sadly too rare and too delicate (thereby suffering in its travels) to even merit discussion.

This more or less leaves me with Wits, which is a style I’ve historically liked quite a bit, but seem to have forgotten about.  I used to load up on cases of Celis White in Chicago when returning to St. Louis from Michigan.  Wit is a great style for St. Louis’ steamy Summers – light, but complex, with a subtle spicing adding to the mild esters from the yeast, and the sharpness of the wheat. They’re both food-friendly, especially with lighter Summer fare like salads, and refreshing to drink on their own.  The problem is availability.

Hoegaarden, the brewery founded by Pierre Celis in the 60’s that virtually revived the style, remains a classic, but I find it one of the least interesting wits available (plus, there’s the whole InBev angle).  However, I’ve recently had some fine craft brewed renditions from Great Lakes – their Holy Moses – and New Belgium Brewing – their Mothership Wit, and have really been enjoying, even craving them.  Since Great Lakes isn’t in these parts anymore, I think I’m going to have to grab a keg of Mothership once something kicks in the kegerator.